Myanmar revisited 2019

Train 61 - Yangon to Bagan

Ever since our initial trip to Myanmar in 2001, we have been thinking of making a return visit. That road trip with our guide offered the benefit of local knowledge to experience Myanmar when it was just beginning to open up to mass tourism. We wanted to reconnect with our guide and also to see what Myanmar is like after the intervening years. After many postponements, we finally went back in May 2019. This time we organised our own itinerary and included several train journeys, a must-do nowadays on our trips. 

Busier Yangon, with more traffic and flashy cars

Tickets for Train 61 - 600 km from Yangon to Bagan
but comforting to know we have insurance!

Airy, open windows with good views

Some things don't change - like toddy palms,

shady rain trees and bullock carts

and ploughing paddyfields the old way 

Village kids at a lay-by rush for foodstuff 
distributed by train passengers  

Sumptuous lunch bought at train stop

Riding Train 61 from Yangon to Bagan

After 17 hours of continuous rocking, rolling and
bouncing, the welcome sight of Bagan train station

Mount Victoria

Situated in Chin state, Mt. Victoria (3,053 m) is the third highest mountain in Myanmar. Mt Victoria National Park is a UNESCO site of Outstanding Universal Value as well as an Asean Heritage Park. In 2001, Mt Victoria (Nat Ma Taung) was difficult to access due to travel restrictions.  Now open to tourists, we made sure to include it in our itinerary. We hired a car and driver and stayed in Kanpetlet, the nearest township to the national park. Unfortunately, it was not the right season for the spectacular rhododendrons of Mt Victoria but nonetheless scenery was wonderful and we had exciting birding.

Our base at Floral Breeze Hotel

Great views from our accommodation

Forest-clad hills as far as the eye can see

Thick rhododendron forest cover the hills

Pleasant hike under the cover of trees

Strong winds shape some of the trees 

Just 200 m elevation to cover before the summit

Finally made it to the top of Mt Victoria

with thanks and homage to the Enlightened One

Gokteik Viaduct

The Gokteik viaduct in Shan state crosses the Gokteik gorge and connects Pyin Oo Lyin and Lashio. This railway bridge, at 102 m above the gorge, was the highest structure of its kind when it was built in 1901. It is the highest railway bridge in Myanmar and even today ranks as one of the largest railway trestle in the world.  Many tourists take the ride on the train to marvel at this super structure and experience the thrill of going over the Gokteik Viaduct.

Excitement mounts as we catch glimpses
of the viaduct on the other side of the gorge 

First view of the Gokteik Viaduct covered by mist

Train slows down on approaching the viaduct

and creeps over the creaking structure as
we peer down and see the gorge and river

One and a half minutes of nail-biting suspense 

as the train slowly goes over the viaduct

Hsipaw to Mandalay via the Gokteik highway

The bus trip from Hsipaw to Mandalay turned out to be quite extraordinary. We already had our thrills riding the train over the Gokteik Viaduct and thought nothing of the bus trip. As it happened, we were in for another round of excitement. Part of the route involved what to us was the most winding road we have ever experienced, with hairpin bends, zig-zags and twists. From an elevation of about 1000 m asl, the road drops into the gorge at around 400 m asl before climbing steeply up again onto the highway.

The road winds downhill, with our bus

tailing many heavy lorries and.....

we join the long line of traffic heading down,

with the bus taking hairpin bends and switch-backs

We stop on the side to allow traffic going up to pass

and then continue steeply downhill, 

negotiating the twists and turns in the road

Relief on seeing the bridge over the river at the
bottom of the gorge before going uphill  

on a similarly suspenseful route - commendable
road courtesy with downhill traffic giving way 

One daring driver on the Gokteik highway 

Looking at the tortuous road we had 
driven on and feeling happy to be safe

thanks to the good luck charm on the bus, our
expert driver and his tape of Buddhist prayers  

The hairpins and switchbacks of the Gokteik highway
are part of the tolled Mandalay- Muse Highway

   

Myanmar 2001 - Bagan archeological site

Everyone visiting Myanmar cannot fail to make a trip to Bagan in Mandalay division. Old Bagan was the capital of the Pagan kingdom which lasted from the 9th to 13th century. The extensive archeological area has the remains of more than 3500 Buddhist temples, stupas and monasteries. Bagan has the largest concentration of Buddhist structures in the world and is now a World Heritage Site. 

Dawn over Bagan with silhouettes of stupas

The morning light reveals the wonder of Bagan 

Verdant fields around the stupas 

          

Stupas of all shapes and sizes

and as far as the eye can see

                                     

Panaromic view of the stupas

seen from a vantage point......this was in 2001 before climbing prohibited!

Dhammayangyi, the largest temple in Bagan

and Thatbyinnyu, the tallest temple in Bagan

            

Sunset over the stupas in Bagan

                 

                  

                           

Sikkim, India Dec 2007 Trek to Bazaraya, Himalayas

We've always referred to our Sikkim holiday as the trip that nearly killed us! The planning and discussion with the guide was done via emails, with little details on the location, so what was supposed to be a regular birding trip turned out to be an expedition! Well, we survived to tell the tale...read on! 

The porters leaving our accommodation in Khecheopalri

         

Everything we needed for two nights

Start of the trek through farmlands

passing cow sheds

farm houses and cultivation

Prayer flags fluttering in the wind

Village kids watch us go by

We follow the track and head into the hills

and leave the village in the valley

and climbed higher

into forest with more trees

and rest to enjoy the view of Khecheopalri lake far below

Hard going for the porters

The two of us were unprepared for the steep terrain - it was actually mountain climbing! So the expedition made an unscheduled overnight camp midway 

Afternoon tea in the middle of nowhere

Pakoras and puri prepared by

our multi-talented crew

our very own toilet in the wild!

Sunset over the distant mountains

Frost covered vegetation when we got up

Finally made it to the top of Bazaraya

and views of the snow-capped Himalayas

and mighty Kanchenjunga

Bitterly cold even with polar covering!

Congratulatory message on conquering 3300 m Bazaraya

Group photo before heading down

General location of Bazaraya